Off the Beaten Path
Yanaka Ginza & Cemetery
Yanaka is what remains of old Tokyo after the 1923 earthquake, 1945 firebombing, and 1960s bulldozer urbanism. The main shopping street has 170 metres of independent vendors with no chain stores: butcher shops, rice sellers, incense vendors, handmade goods, local snacks, freshly made soba. Kids find the food stalls engaging and interesting; teens find the neighbourhood history more significant. The cemetery at the end has cryptomeria trees so tall they block the sky and moss-covered graves from the Edo period. The walk from the entrance to the back of the cemetery takes about 90 minutes if you stop at things that interest you, which is the right pace for a neighbourhood this historically layered.
Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo (Yanaka Ginza entrance near Nippori Station west exit)1.5 to 2 hoursFree to walk; food and shop items vary (noodles ~700 yen, snacks 100-300 yen)